Is My Car Going to Catch on Fire?

"Matthew Henry" (matthenry) 12/29/2013 at 19:36 • Filed to: None

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Greetings, Fellow Opponauts! I have a question...

As you may know, I drive a horribly boring 1998 Buick LeSabre. ( !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! ) 178k on the body, about 80k on the engine. Recently, the radiator cracked (on the plastic part). Driving more than about 2-3 miles resulted in the engine heating up to well over operating temp (about 200), and white coolant steam came out at a pretty fast clip. It wouldn't overheat at idle—I think it had to be under fairly high pressure to start leaking from the crack.

Since I'm on a tight budget, I "fixed" it by applying a whole tube of steel epoxy over the crack. It mostly worked. I've driven the car on several errands around town, and several longer trips (30+ miles each way). Each time, there's been a SMALL amount of steam coming out from under the hood near the crack when I stopped. However, the temperature will only get above 200 when I spend a significant amount of time driving slowly (<25mph). As soon as I speed up, it cools back down as the airflow increases.

So here's my question. I have a 500 mile drive back to college at the end of the week. I'm planning on replacing the radiator soon—do I HAVE to do it before I get on the road, or am I okay to wait a little while? If I wait, I'd be topping off the fluid every stop and keeping an eye on it—but like I said, it hasn't been running more than about 180-185 or so (tops) on the highway.1


Second Question:
My mechanic (who sold me the car, performed the engine replacement, and is honest) told me that the car burnt about a quart of oil every month or 6 weeks or so. I've just kept the oil topped off. He suggested that as winter was coming, I should put in 5w-30 (instead of 10w-30) when I topped it off. My guess is that it's now about 7w-30.

So, when I crank the car, the oil pressure gauge reads dead normal. After 15 minutes of driving or so (and the engine's fully warmed up), the needle drops about one notch on the gauge, so now it's reading a little on the low side (but far out of the dangerous range). The pressure needle goes up a little under hard acceleration/higher RPMs. Should I be worried about this, or is it a result of the lighter weight oil? Any suggestions? I might just do a full oil & filter change and see whether that changes anything.


As always, thanks!

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midnightautoparts > Matthew Henry 12/29/2013 at 19:55

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I would be concerned about the radiator. It is a possibility that the crack will keep"running". I wouldn't risk a 500 mile trip on it. As far as oil.... ehhh, the 3800 v-6 will run on anything.

NinetyQ > Matthew Henry 12/29/2013 at 19:56

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Oil pressure sounds about right for running a lighter weight oil. For reference, my Audi always starts out with the oil pressure gauge pegged at the high end. As it warms up, it comes to about the middle of the gauge at idle (or a little lower) and rises back to the far end of the gauge when on the gas. It probably would be better to run a heavier weight oil though regardless of winter (unless you're in somewhere super-cold). It should help with oil consumption too.

Now for the coolant. My advice would be to get the radiator taken care of ASAP and not risk getting badly broken down on that long trip. The extra heat isn't doing the rest of the car any favors. It shouldn't be running 180 on the highway. That's usually where it would get warm enough to kick the fan on, so like when you're idling for a long period of time or something like that, not when cruising. My Grand Prix's fan rarely kicks on at all. Better to run a bit cool than a bit hot usually. If it's feasible to do before the trip, do it. If not, you may not break down, but you're still taking a risk. How much it's worth to you is up to you.

Matthew Henry > NinetyQ 12/29/2013 at 20:02

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Thank you! Good info. I'm really guessing about where the temp is— this gauge is not super high accuracy. The fans apparently kick on at 200 (according to the Haynes manual). I'm probably going to get that radiator replaced this week—I got Christmas money, so I can afford the parts.

Aaron James > Matthew Henry 12/29/2013 at 20:12

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Driving 500 miles with a cracked radiator is not advised. You can wind up on the side of the road in a heap of trouble. If at all possible, replace before your journey.

desertdog5051 > NinetyQ 12/29/2013 at 20:30

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On that engine it should be 195.

NinetyQ > desertdog5051 12/29/2013 at 20:39

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My bad. 195 when the fans kick on, right? Otherwise, that just seems high.

RacinBob > NinetyQ 12/29/2013 at 21:24

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Now be careful, as you don't want a face full of 200 degree antifreeze. See if you can drive it with the radiator cap on and loose. If it were mine and I can drive it for a half hour without it boiling over, or losing a lot of water, I might consider chancing it. Especially if its winter where you are.

Now, the disclaimer. If you really have never messed with a radiator cap, it may not be a swift idea. Burns are a bitch. also you will need to replace the radiator, and also I am assuming your radiator fans are working.

Matthew Henry > NinetyQ 12/29/2013 at 21:54

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yup, it's 195 when the fans kick on. My bad.

Matthew Henry > RacinBob 12/29/2013 at 21:55

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Since it's pretty much a given that I need to replace the radiator, I'm thinking that I should go ahead and do it now (in my driveway, with all of my tools, and another car I can borrow to go to the parts store) versus doing it in Student Parking at college.